Choosing Leather for Millinery & Flower Making

Your guide to selecting the right leather for hats, headpieces, and handcrafted embellishments

Leather is a wonderfully versatile material that brings structure, texture, and elegance to millinery work. Whether you're shaping a hat crown, edging a brim, or crafting delicate leather flowers, choosing the right type of leather can make all the difference. But with so many varieties out there, how do you know what to look for?

Here’s our guide to understanding leather for millinery—so you can select the perfect piece with confidence.

What Type of Leather Should I Use?

Leather is the tanned skin or hide of animals, and not all types are created equal when it comes to hat-making. For millinery and flower work, we typically work with softer, more flexible leathers—most commonly from lamb, goat, pig, or fish. These skins are naturally thinner and more pliable, making them ideal for the stretching and shaping involved in hat design.

You can buy leather from specialist suppliers (we recommend Walter Reginald in London), or even upcycle vintage leather garments—think coats, bags, or gloves—for a sustainable and stylish twist.

Leather Grades – What Do They Mean?

Like gemstones and fabrics, leather is graded based on quality. Here's a quick breakdown:

• A Grade: The highest quality, with minimal blemishes. Perfect for visible surfaces and sleek finishes.

• B Grade: A good middle-ground option. Some flaws may be present, but these can often be worked around—especially useful for flowers and trims.

• C & Utility Grades: More imperfections and a more affordable option. Ideal for practice, background work, or less visible sections of a design.

Remember, leather is a natural product—so no two pieces will ever be completely perfect, and that’s part of its charm.

Stretch, Thickness & Workability

For millinery, you need leather that’s both stretchable and shapeable, particularly when blocking or sculpting. This is where water solubility becomes important. Some leathers are easier to manipulate than others, depending on how they’ve been tanned:

• Vegetable-tanned leather is a favourite among milliners. It’s treated with natural agents and responds beautifully to water and steam, making it easy to mould. It's also eco-friendly.

• Aniline-dyed leather is another good choice—it’s coloured with soluble dyes that penetrate the leather, rather than sitting on top like paint.

• Chrome-tanned leather is more common and cost-effective, but it's less responsive to water and steam due to its chemical finish.

When making leather flowers, thinner is better. Look for skins in the 0.4mm–0.8mm range to achieve fine, delicate details. For blocking hats, you can work with slightly thicker leather, depending on the structure you’re after.

How is Leather Measured?

Leather thickness is often described in ounces or millimetres, which can be confusing when shopping. Here's a quick guide:

Always check the thickness listed when buying online—and don’t hesitate to reach out to suppliers for advice if you're unsure.

Final Tips from The Extraordinary Hat Shop

• Always test the stretch of your leather before starting a project—the flexibility can vary even within a single hide.

• Buy smart: A slightly lower-grade leather can still produce stunning results when used strategically.

• Consider repurposing vintage leather—it’s not only sustainable, but can give your designs character and history.

Whether you're crafting a bold statement headpiece or intricate leather florals, selecting the right leather is key to a beautifully finished result.

🧵 If you'd like expert advice on materials or want to commission a custom leather-trimmed hat, feel free to get in touch. We're always happy to help you bring your vision to life—with extraordinary style, of course.